Counterfeit or fake Rolex have been a common issue due to the popularity and high value of the brand. Are you considering buying one and want to protect yourself against a fake Rolex purchase? Or wondering how we ensure no fake Rolex watches are accepted as lending security or offered for pre-owned sale through our retail business?
Yes, unfortunately fake Rolex is an ongoing challenge with numerous examples of counterfeit operations and instances where fake Rolexes have made headlines. That said, Rolex themselves actively work with law enforcement agencies and take legal action against individuals and organisations involved in the production and distribution of fake Rolexes as well as helping against stolen Rolex watches. They aim to protect their brand integrity and ensure customers receive genuine products. Jewellers and pawnbrokers also play a part in recognising copies as well as identifying stolen watches. Of course the issue is not Rolex exclusive, it is a huge problem for all luxury watch brands.
Operation Swisswatch: In 2008, Italian police dismantled a massive counterfeit Rolex operation. They seized over 8,000 fake watches and arrested several individuals involved in the production and distribution of these counterfeits.
Flea Markets and Online Sales: Counterfeit Rolexes are often found in flea markets, street corners, and online marketplaces. Fake Rolex watches can also be found for sale in physical shops There have been numerous cases where sellers have been caught selling fake Rolexes to unsuspecting buyers.
Customs Intervention: Authorities around the world, including customs agencies, regularly intercept shipments of counterfeit watches, including Rolexes, attempting to enter countries illegally.
Production Raids: Police and law enforcement agencies have conducted raids on factories and workshops involved in the production of fake Rolexes. These operations often uncover large-scale manufacturing setups dedicated to producing counterfeit luxury watches.
Celebrity Scandals: Yes, there have even been instances where celebrities inadvertently promoted or wore counterfeit Rolexes. Public scrutiny and embarrassment has naturally fuelled more interest and awareness of the potential risk, at least one positive from their expensive mistakes!
Although we always advise buying through an Official Retailer for new Rolex purchases, and reputable dealers for second hand acquisitions, there are a few clues which could alert you to a fake Rolex yourself. Here are our top tips:
Rolexes are made with high-quality materials, either patented oyster steel or patented gold/platinum alloy, so they tend to be heavier than counterfeit ones. The weight and feel of a Rolex can often give away its authenticity. So, if you know someone who has a real Rolex, ask them if you can feel the weight of theirs so you have something to compare to. Or if you have a genuine watch by another luxury brand such as TUDOR (Rolex sister company), Omega or TAG Heuer, then compare with that for an initial view. Real Rolex watch weight is also very specific, all watches of the same model are identical, for example a true Rolex Submariner should weight 155 grams.
Rolex watches have a smooth, continuous movement of the second hand, often described as a sweeping motion. Fake Rolexes may have a ticking motion for the second hand. Look closely and listen too. There is one design / model which is an exception to this, the Rolex Oysterquartz, which runs on a quartz movement instead of a self-winding or mechanical one, and does exhibit a ‘ticking’ motion and sound.
Rolex watches with a date window have a magnification lens called a “cyclops” that magnifies the date by 2.5 times. On a fake Rolex watch, this lens might be of lower quality, misaligned, or may not magnify the date properly. This feature is unique to Rolex, so if you are looking at another luxury brand featuring one, then also do question the authenticity.
Rolex serial numbers are engraved, precise and clean. Check that the serial number is located between the lugs (the metal pieces where the bracelet meets the watch case). Counterfeit watches might have poorly etched or missing serial numbers.
Rolex maintains a database of serial numbers and the corresponding watch manufacture date. Although this is not publicly available, official stockists and reputable second hand luxury watch traders can verify the authenticity of a Rolex using this database. This same source can alo validate that the watch has not been reported stolen.
Pay particular attention to the Rolex logo and text on the dial. Take a look at official stockist websites to view authentic models up close and recognise the precision. Counterfeit watches often have a slight difference in font, spacing or logo placement.
Also examine the materials closely. Genuine Rolexes are made with high-quality metals, crystal, and have intricate details. Counterfeits might use cheaper materials that are visibly of lower quality upon closer inspection.
The Rolex Box & Papers are equally as important to check. There can be notable differences between genuine Rolex packaging and that used with counterfeits. Genuine packaging reflects the brand’s impeccable standards and displays the same commitment to quality and attention applied to their watches. Examples include precision pouch stitching, accurate embossing, and perfect box corners.
The way the watch is presented within the box can also differ. Authentic Rolexes are carefully placed within the box, often with protective coverings and supports to secure the watch. Counterfeit watches might have less attention to presentation or protective measures. Different models are also presented in unique ways, a detail which often only true experts are familiar with.
Authentic Rolex watches come with thorough documentation, including a warranty card, owner’s manual, and sometimes a certificate of authenticity. The paperwork is well-printed, with sharp text and accurate information. Counterfeit watches may have documentation that looks rushed, with printing errors or missing elements. When buying a vintage Rolex the ‘box papers’ are highly useful because they assist the buyer in establishing whether the watch is authentic or not. A watch made in 1960 will not have a valid warranty, but the card will still have the serial number.
Always keep in mind that counterfeiters are continuously improving their replicas, so some fake Rolex may appear quite convincing and our best advice always remains to buy from an official stockist or from a pre-owned luxury watch specialist whose own authenticity and expert credentials can be fully validated. Do they have a physical shop? Do they have reviews with trusted sources such as Google Reviews and Trustpilot? A London pawnbroker like Suttons and Robertsons are experts in Rolex watches and are aware that once sold they will need to stand by an item, as it can easily be returned. Remember a pawnbroker or second hand trader has already invested in the watch and will have undertaken comprehensive and undisputable verification checks. The retail division S&R Jewellers also fully guarantees authenticity of all pre-owned watches and jewellery.
There are certainly some preliminary checks you can undertake yourself to detect poorer fake Rolex watches but with highly skilled counterfeit operations, buying from a trusted seller remains absolutely the safest approach to invest in one of these world leading watches.
If you own a Rolex want to get a fast cash loan from a London pawnbroker or you are looking to sell your Rolex, then please get in touch. We are experts in luxury timepieces can guide you into this exciting world. You can also shop our pre-owned Rolex products online.
You may be wondering why I have taken the time to write an article on fake Rolex watch boxes. And if you're like my wife, who had the pleasure of finding me camped out on the dining room table, with fake and genuine boxes piled so high they resembled an obscure box fort, you're probably asking yourself why such an article is important.
And if we were having this conversation a decade ago or more, the answer would have been 'not very'. But in today's world, fake watch boxes are prevalent. And it doesn't matter whether you're a private buyer, a retailer, a loss adjuster or an insurance company; being able to determine whether a watch box is genuine or not is more significant than ever.
The days of fake boxes being the preserve of cheap and comical fake watches often found on street stalls during a two-week summer break in the Med are long gone. I think that's a shame, as I miss those comical boxes, where the only difference between them was the brand stamp.
But why have things changed so much? To put it simply, it is down to the explosion in the pre-owned watch market. Historically, pre-owned watches with a box were seen as a more attractive purchase, often obtaining a higher fee over a watch that didn't have one.
The problem has always been that few people bother to keep the box when buying a new watch, or it is put somewhere 'safe' and forgotten. And in days gone by, watches without boxes were very much the norm, and it was never an issue. The majority of buyers were happy to buy a watch without a box, with only a few particular buyers keen on a 'complete set' watch and the premium cost they attracted.
Now that pendulum has swung the other way, with more and more prospective buyers are shying away watches that don't come with a box, but why?
Because somehow, the idea that a box proves a watch to be genuine has gathered momentum and taken hold in the eyes of buying public. It sounds crazy when you say it out loud, but that is the truth. Unfortunately, too many people will either not buy or ask for a significant discount if a watch doesn't have a box or, worse still, papers as it is somehow deemed inferior.
The truth is a large proportion of the pre-owned watches that re-enter the retail market do so without a box. But with the increasing demand for pre-owned watches, coupled with the opinion that you should only buy a watch with a box, has created a fertile market for counterfeit boxes, especially Rolex.
So it is understandable that an owner, a dealer or a retailer may choose to source a pre-owned box for a watch, especially if it makes it more appealing and likely to achieve a quicker sale. Sadly as you can't buy replacement boxes from any of the applicable watch houses, people have sought them out from other sources, which has only added fuel to the fire.
Now I'm not saying that anyone, whether private sellers or retailers are knowingly putting fake boxes out there, far from it. Some of the fakes are very good and hard to spot if you don't know what to look for. But it is an issue, and it needs addressing, as finding a watch without a box seems to be a rarity these days. A cursory look online will show watches with either questionable boxes or boxes from completely the wrong era. For example, I've lost count of how many 1990's Rolex's I have seen with post-2014 style boxes. Many retailers have told me that a box adds confidence in the prospective buyer's eyes, and I question that narrative. That sort of confidence is on shaky foundations if it's a wrong era box at best or, at worst, a fake. Surely there are other more genuine ways of providing confidence?
The simple fact is fake watch boxes, especially Rolex, are out there in their droves, irrespective of the how's or whys. Given the variety of Rolex watch boxes produced over the years, it is beyond the scope of this article to cover them all in detail. So I shall focus on the most modern type, which seems to be the most prevalent on the market at the moment.
So how do you spot the difference between a genuine and a fake modern Rolex watch box? The key, as with all counterfeits, is in the detail. As I have said in my previous posts and articles, the sole purpose of any counterfeit item is to look as close to the real thing, for the least amount of cost possible.
So, like these two boxes, one of which is fake, they look the same from a distance. But it's up close and personal, where the quality and finish will always let the fake down.
The interior Rolex text and coronet
Genuine:
Here we have the interior text and coronet from a genuine box. As you can see, the printing and finish are clean, balanced and well defined, basically what you would expect from a luxury brand.
FAKE 1:
The printing of the text isn't too bad in this example, but the font isn't right and it lacks the definition seen on the genuine box. But its the printing of the coronet that lets this one down, with numerous areas where the print has bled, leading to a poor finish
FAKE 2:
The text font is wrong and the printing on this example is uneven and patchy, while the prongs of the coronet are uneven. In addition, the prong on the far left has significantly less tapering than others.
FAKE 3:
In this example, the coronet is better, with a nominal amount of bleeding, but the Rolex text is the dead giveaway, as you can see the printing lines.
Interior finish
As with the text, the interior finish of a Rolex box should fit and feel like it is in keeping with a luxury brand. With the fake boxes, you'll find anything but that.
Modern Rolex boxes have a hinged panel in the lid, which covers a recess where the instructions and warranty card are stored. In a genuine box, this panel fits perfectly, and its range of movement is seamless and unhindered.
Fake:
The lip is always a fraction too large in the fakes, so it continuously catches the interior lining, making it difficult to open and close.
Check those corners!
Genuine:
The interior lining is always well fitted, with the corners having a mitre joint. You'll also notice how the mitre joint of the interior lining aligns with that of the box itself.
Fake:
Fakes on the other hand, are just overlapped strips of lining, that do not align.
The base tray
The base tray and cushion are often one of the last parts of the box you'll look at. Solely because by that time, you will have already determined whether the box is real or not, but I still think it prudent to take a look. Now with most modern boxes, the quality of the watch cushion is pretty good, and you can often only tell if it's real by touch. Rolex interiors have a unique texture that the counterfeits have been unable to copy.
The base itself is a different story. As with the lip, it should fit the box just right, not bounce around because it too small, or be an overly tight squeeze to fit in. In the above image, the fake is on the left.
Genuine:
The most obvious thing with this genuine interior is that it's a simple, well-proportioned rectangle. It's like this because it fits perfectly into the box, like a piece in a jigsaw.
FAKE:
With the fake, you'll instantly notice that it's neither a rectangle nor well proportioned, as the sides are angled differently. Why spend time and money making something fit perfectly when it just needs to look like it fits.
Conclusion:
The above points are just some of the key aspects that I look for when reviewing a modern Rolex box. But as you have seen, once you get up close, the lack of quality is telling, and it is that lack of quality that transitions over to every counterfeit box, irrespective of brand. I hope that I have been able to give you some insight into what to look for and the confidence to both question and determine whether a box is genuine.
Remember it doesn't matter whether you are a private individual or a dealer looking at purchasing. Or, if you are a loss adjuster or insurance company trying to determine the validity of a claim with limited substantiation, being able to tell the difference between a genuine and fake box is imperative.
Gareth Brown FGA, DGA, GIA-Pearls, CPAA, AJP, FJVA
Gareth Brown FGA, DGA, GIA-Pearls, CPAA, AJP, FJVA, is a professional watch and jewellery valuer, and a fellow of The Jewellery Valuers Association. He is also the director of Clarity Valuations Ltd, a specialist company providing independent watch and jewellery valuations to members of the public, jewellery trade, solicitors, insurance companies, and local authorities.
Connect with Gareth on LinkedIn, Facebook, and Instagram